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Motorcycle diaries

By The Assam Tribune
Motorcycle diaries
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AT Photo

Guwahati, August 7: In the summer of 2024, a group of spirited individuals from Assam, along with a few members of the Assamese diaspora, embarked on a journey that would etch itself into the annals of their lives. They were not just travellers-they were the daredevils on Harley-Davidsons, carving their path on the historic Route 66. The roar of the engines, the wind against their faces, and the open road ahead - this was the essence of freedom for them.

We were a group united by our love for adventure, the hum of Harley David- son bikes beneath us, and the legendary Route 66 stretching out in front of us. I, along with Devajit Lon Saikia-Advocate General Assam and Joint Secretary of the BCCI; adventure lover and businessman Dipak Chandra Das; Diganta Das, senior advocate, Gauhati High Court; Raja De, interventional cardiologist from Guwahati, presently based out of Sarasota, Florida; Shoaib Alam and Jhilam Nath from Washington DC; Tejal Verma Saikia; and driving the backup Jeep-Mihika Baruah, granddaughter of Birinchi Kumar Baruah and daughter of Raj Baruah (who also happens to be the first Honda motorbike owner of Guwahati in the '60s), presently based out of Los Angeles, embarked on a journey that was more than just a ride - it was a pilgrimage through the heart of America.

Since childhood, the Spaghetti Westerns and country songs had painted vivid pictures of US Route 66 in our minds. "Engraving its legendary path through the heartland of Uncle Sam with my closest and most adventurous friends, after months of planning, was more than just a thrill - it was an odyssey into the soul of America. This journey was more than an adventure - it was a cherished chapter in our lives, forever engraved in our hearts," maintained Devajit Saikia.

United States Highway 66, popularly known as Route 66, embodies a complex, rich history that goes well beyond any chronicle of the road itself - an artery of transportation, an agent of special transformation, and a remnant of the American past. It stretches 2,400 miles across two-thirds of the continent.

Among the several museums dedicated to Route 66, we visited the ones in Pontiac (Illinois), Clinton (Oklahoma) and Santa Rosa (New Mexico). With heavier traffic, business along the highway boomed, and the image of Route 66 as a Dust Bowl migration route changed to one of freedom and kicks. These faded highways in multiple alignments connect not only the East and the West, but also the past and the present. While riding, the bleak image of studying John Steinbeck's Grapes of Wrath in Cotton College, Guwahati, and getting a hang of the Mother Road, coined by Steinbeck, became brighter with every mile.

Our odyssey began in Chicago, where the skyline was a backdrop to our excitement. The bikes - Harley Davidson Road Glides from Eagle Rider Chicago were not just vehicles, they were our companions for the miles to come. We were joined on the first day by local residents and close friends from Assam, Gautam Goswami, his wife Jagriti, and culinary specialist, Rakhi Bhandari till our first stop in Springfield. Their warmth was a delight and we bid them goodbye in Springfield the next day! As we rode through Illinois, the murals of Pontiac whispered stories of a bygone era, and the diners served up not just meals but slices of history. The group ensured making pit stops at local establishments to promote these 'mom and pop' places and embrace the local vibe. The restaurants along the way were not part of any chain; they were unique, each with its own taste and feel, just like the experiences we collected.

Mihika, alongside Shreyas, driving the backup Jeep, was the thread that bound us. "For someone who thrives on experiences and forming genuine friendships, the invitation to join a group of Harley riders from my hometown on Route 66 was a calling from the Universe... As a true Nature's child, I was born to be wild," she exclaimed with a gleam in her eyes.

Moreover, the museums in Illinois, Oklahoma and New Mexico were not just collections of memorabilia but sanctuaries preserving the soul of the Mother Road. "The spirit of Route 66 was palpable, it was a spirit that transcended time," shared Diganta Das. Our itinerary was more than just a schedule - it was a script for an epic tale. From Chicago to Springfield, Rolla to Tulsa, and beyond Joplin to Amarillo and our destination in Albuquerque, we lived the lyrics of Bobby Troupe's Route 66. The upbeat tune was not just a soundtrack but an anthem for our adventure.

In Joplin, due to a bike snarl, we had to tow one to the Harley Davidson showroom cum workshop which was called Hideout after the infamous outlaws Bonnie and Clyde. "Their hideout was located at 3347+1/2 Oak Ridge Drive in Joplin, Newton County, Missouri and its front door opens onto 34th Street," shared Rye Rye, the Chaos Coordinator and Head of the Harley Davidson 'Hideout' in Joplin. After listening to my Assam stories, Kathie Harris, General Merchandise Associate and rider presented me with one of their signature 'Bonnie and Clyde' T-shirts and brooch.

One encounter that stands out vividly in my memory happened in Tulsa. With thunderstorms and heavy rain predicted on our ride to Clinton, the group decided to spend that Sunday in Tulsa where we explored some local Creole cuisine and enjoyed some blues at the Bourbon Street Café in Downtown. Our next stop was a local pub, Soundpony. As we entered, our host, Amelia, greeted us and we met singer and writer Steve and Ceci Pollard, regulars there. The place was adorned with Route 66 memorabilia, each piece telling a story of the road's golden days. Ceci approached us with a warm smile, her eyes lighting up after hearing of our trip. "You folks riding the whole Route 66?" she asked, her voice rich with a Southern drawl. We nodded, and that sparked a conversation that would become the highlight of our day. "This place used to be a pit-stop for many just like you, seeking adventure, seeking life," she reminisced. We talked for hours; our journey temporarily paused as we soaked in the living history Ceci provided. Before we left, she insisted on taking a group photo with us. That encounter with Ceci and Amelia was a testament to the enduring spirit of Route 66. It was a reminder that the road is more than a connection between points on a map-it's a tapestry woven from the threads of countless stories, including ours.

Cadillac Ranch in Amarillo, Texas was yet another scenic stop. It's not just the sight of those iconic half-buried Cadillacs, painted in vibrant graffiti that makes it memorable. It's the vastness of the Texas sky, stretching out in an endless canvas of blues, pinks, and oranges as the sunsets, creating a silhouette of the cars against the twilight. "It's a reminder of the freedom that Route 66 represents, the creativity it inspires, and the legacy it has left behind. It's a place where every visitor leaves a mark like we spray-painted 'Assam' on one of the cars, just as the road leaves its mark on every traveller," reflected Raja De.

Upon reaching the Midpoint Café in Adrian, Texas the official midpoint of Route 66, a white line on the road marked the distance to Chicago and Los Angeles-1,139 miles either way. Our hearts brimmed with excitement as we unfurled the vibrant gamosas, each one a piece of our homeland. Fellow American riders, drawn to the vivid patterns and our infectious enthusiasm, joined us with curious smiles. What began as a simple act of celebration blossomed into a profound connection, a bridge spanning two distant worlds. In the warm embrace of this shared moment, conversations flowed like an endless river. We spoke with passion about the gamosa's significance in Assamese culture. We even presented gamosas to two curious Americans as a token of appreciation for taking our photograph; they were thrilled! After riding through Texas, we finally dropped off our bikes in Albuquerque (New Mexico), with Glen Cambell's song By the time I get to Phoenix buzzing in our eardrums. And so, the legend goes, you can still get your kicks on Route 66, and we are the living testament to that timeless truth. The journey along Route 66, while exhilarating, was not without its challenges. One of the most significant hurdles we faced was the unpredictable weather. As we rode from state to state, we encountered everything from scorching heat to sudden downpours, not to forget the crosswinds.

Yet, perhaps the most challenging aspect was the physical toll. Long hours on the road, the vibration of the bikes, and the concentration required to stay safe meant that we ended each day exhausted but still stretching ourselves to late nights, bonding over dinner and banter at the hotels. Personally for me, the long hours on the bike provided ample time for reflection. It was an op- portunity to contemplate life, set new goals, and appreciate the moment. Above all, the journey rekindled the spirit of adventure within us. As quoted by Dipak Das-"Life's path is a journey to be traversed and it is the adventures ventured that matters more than the destination. We enjoyed our ride to the hilt." As for all of us, Route 66 is still immortalised as a highway of thrills and kicks!

-Sattyakee D'com Bhuyan

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