Uzanbazar fish market: Where traditions jostle with new urban plans this Bhogali

On Uruka, long before Guwahati fully wakes up, the narrow lanes of Uzanbazar come alive. Wrapped in winter fog and quiet anticipation, the heritage fish market, one of the city’s oldest, slips into its most animated hour, transforming into the beating heart of Bhogali celebrations.

This is where the festival of feasting truly begins. For generations, Magh Bihu has meant fish in abundance, and on January 13, tradition thrums through every crowded corner.

From sitol, rou and bhouka to a dazzling spread of other river varieties, the market turns into a meeting ground for traders and buyers from across Assam.

This year, the rush is expected to be bigger than ever, even as the bustling market negotiates space with the newly constructed Sati Radhika Park, built alongside the trading hub, an old ritual unfolding amid a changing urban landscape.

A market that outgrows its boundaries

“On Magh Bihu, we need wide open space,” said fish seller Rajib Das, explaining the unique pressure the festival brings. With sellers arriving in large numbers on Uruka, he believes a larger trading area would have been more suitable for the market.

“The quantity of fish is much higher and traders come in large numbers. The authorities have opened up space beneath the park structure, but the area is still muddy and damp. That makes it difficult for fish sellers to operate comfortably,” he said.

His concern reflects a broader tension between a living, breathing traditional market and the demands of changing urban infrastructure.

Rows of freshly caught fish await buyers at the Uzanbazar fish market. (AT Photo)

The newly built Sati Radhika Park, located adjacent to the market, has altered the dynamics of the area. While it has added a landscaped public space to Uzanbazar, it has also reduced the breathing room of a market that already struggles to cope during peak festive days.

To manage the seasonal surge, a temporary arrangement has been put in place. Wholesale traders will operate from the original market area, while retailers will set up shop under and around the park structure during the Bhogali mela.

Bigger ambitions, familiar chaos

Despite the logistical challenges, the mood among traders remains largely optimistic. For Bhaskar Das, general secretary of the Brihattar Uzanbazar Schedule Caste Unemployed Fish Trader Association, the focus is on scale rather than constraints.

“There is no major problem. We have been given additional space extending towards the riverbank. Last year, around 70–80 tonnes of fish were sold here. This time, we are targeting nearly 100 tonnes,” he says.

The numbers tell their own story. On Uruka and Magh Bihu, nearly 1,000 to 1,500 fish traders converge on Uzanbazar from Dibrugarh, Tinsukia, Tezpur, Nalbari, Mangaldoi, Barpeta, Morigaon, Mukalmua and even Hajo.

The market now begins as early as 4–4:30 am, factoring in dense winter fog and the urgency of wholesale trade, which wraps up quickly. Retail sales and the Bhogali Mela, however, continue through the day.

Preparations underway as the Bhogali Mela gate takes shape at Uzanbazar fish market. (AT Photo)

While fish remains the undisputed star, the market during Magh Bihu is also a celebration of Assamese food culture.

Stalls selling pitha, sira, doi, duck and other festive essentials line the area, turning the market into a sensory experience of smells, sounds and flavours.

By mid-morning, the market is no longer just a place of transaction but becomes a spectacle. Shoppers weave through rows of fish stalls, while families browse nearby vendors selling essentials of Magh Bihu feasting.

“There’s a rhythm to this place on Magh Bihu. You don’t just come to buy fish but to feel the festival,” says a regular visitor.

Between heritage & future

Uzanbazar’s fish market holds a special place in Guwahati’s collective memory. Located in one of the city’s oldest neighbourhoods, close to the river, it has survived floods, congestion and now urban redevelopment.

The Assam government’s plan to redevelop the Uzanbazar fish market, housing the market on the ground floor with parking facilities above, signals a more structured future.

Area allotted for retailers beneath the Sati Radhika Park structure. (AT Photo)

Yet, during Magh Bihu, the market resists uniformity. It spills, expands and breathes, much like the Brahmaputra beside it.

As Guwahati modernises, Uzanbazar’s Uruka fish market remains a powerful reminder that some traditions cannot be boxed in. For one foggy winter morning and a bustling festive day, the city still bends to the rhythm of fish sellers, early risers and the timeless joy of Bhogali.