Fading flavours: Assam’s iconic tea faces its toughest battle yet

Once the pride of Assam, with its verdant, sprawling tea gardens and the bold, distinctive flavour of its brew, the region’s tea industry now finds itself at a critical juncture. The lush landscapes that once defined the state are now slowly fading, ruined by the dual forces of environmental changes and economic strain.

Climate change has altered the very rhythm of nature that once nurtured Assam’s tea, while rising costs and labour shortages threaten to loosen the fabric of the industry. This is more than just a business struggle—it is the story of a community fighting to preserve a heritage that’s slipping away.

A tea garden labourer going about her daily work in a tea garden in upper Assam 

Climate change: A menacing force

For centuries, Assam’s climate served as a boon to tea cultivation, offering the ideal balance of temperature and rainfall to nurture its tender new leaves. However, the past decade has seen a dramatic shift.

The once harmonious rhythm of nature that helped this industry has grown unpredictable, often verging on being hostile. At the core of this crisis lies climate change that has turned Assam’s once-reliable weather patterns into a risky gamble, with each year bringing fresh uncertainties.

The region now faces unpredictable rainfall and extreme temperature fluctuations, with the rainy season confined to about eight months, leaving the rest of the year dry. These erratic patterns have led to heavy rains over short periods, causing waterlogging and floods, while periods of excessive heat have scorched the tea leaves, disrupting their growth.

"The recent increase in temperature by 1.5 to 2 degrees Celsius has adversely affected the health of the tea bushes, while erratic rainfall patterns have harmed the first flush of tea," explained Dr. Pradip Baruah, ex-chief Advisory Officer and Chief Scientist, Tocklai Tea Research Institute.

According to recent data from the Assam Meteorological Department, the state’s average temperature has risen from 25.1°C in 2010 to 27.0°C in 2024. Simultaneously, annual rainfall has declined from 2,800 mm to 2,400 mm, intensifying droughts and floods—both of which have multiplied in frequency, increasing from one to four occurrences annually over the past 14 years.

An overview of the evolving climatic conditions over the years (Data: Assam Meteorological Department)

 “Climatic conditions significantly impact the tea ecosystem. For instance, in 2022, Majuli tea garden experienced temperatures exceeding 35°C for 42 days. In 2023, this spiked to 133 days. Tea thrives at an optimum temperature of 32°C, and any deviation proves detrimental,” explains a tea industry official from a Majuli tea garden.

Rainfall across Assam and North Bengal tea estates ranges from 2000 to 3600 mm annually, but its changing distribution, with an extended lean period from October to May, has affected soil moisture, crop water needs, and pest patterns, increasing chemical use.

“Additionally, rising temperatures, especially in summer, have caused scorching of tea foliage and widespread dry-environment pests, severely impacting tea crop and quality", said Santanu Baruah, Retired Senior Principal Scientist & Senior Advisory Officer, Tea Research Association.

The vulnerability of Assam’s tea gardens was starkly exposed in May 2024, when a devastating flood submerged over 30% of plantations in mere days, slashing tea output by 15% compared to the previous year.

Assam’s tea gardens have long served as habitats for various species, including several endangered ones. However, the degradation and abandonment of tea plantations have led to a 10% decline in bird species and a 15% drop in insect populations in affected areas, as reported by the Assam Forest Department.

Economic pressures: The squeeze tightens

As nature wreaked havoc, economic pressures began to mount. The cost of tea production has risen sharply, driven by higher wages, increased prices for inputs such as fertilizers and pesticides, and escalating maintenance expenses.

Between 2010 and 2024, the average cost of producing a kilogram of tea in Assam rose from ₹80 to ₹140, official data revealed. Meanwhile, the average selling price saw only a marginal increase, rising from ₹120 to ₹145 per kilogram. This has caused profit margins to shrink from 33% to a meagre 3%.

An analysis of the fluctuations in tea prices over the years (Data: Tea industry reports)

"In the past, large agencies like Tata, Williams & Magors, Goodricke and Rossel controlled tea production through their own gardens. Now, small brought-leaf factories buy tea leaves from private gardens, and nearly every household has a tea garden. These factories focus on quantity over quality, unlike big agencies, which prioritise both. As a result, the quality of tea has declined. While demand for tea remains steady, supply has exceeded expectations, and the rise of alternatives like coffee has further diversified the market," added the tea official.

To make matters worse, the Centre’s well-meaning ban on 20 pesticides in 2024 has further strained production. July’s output fell short by 15 to 20 million kilograms—a significant decline from the record 1.394 billion kg produced in 2023.

"Government policies can play a crucial role in alleviating these pressures. Initiatives like rainwater harvesting, afforestation around tea estates, and soil health improvements can mitigate the adverse effects of climate change. Also, tea tourism in Assam has immense potential, and the government should introduce specific policies to boost it," suggested Dr Pradip.

Economic hardships & labour shortages

Labour shortages are another significant issue impacting Assam’s tea gardens. "The younger generation is increasingly uninterested in tea garden work, often seeking better opportunities elsewhere," said Dr Pradip. This has led to delays in plucking, a crucial factor for maintaining tea quality.

Unfortunately, attracting younger workers to the tea industry remains a challenge. "There is a need for diversification and skill development programmes to keep the younger generation involved. Marketing strategies for Assam tea are being explored by young entrepreneurs, but more needs to be done," he continued.

In 2024, a significant strike broke out as workers demanded an increase in their daily wage from ₹167 to ₹350. Plantation owners, already grappling with slim margins, argued that such demands were unsustainable without corresponding increases in tea prices.

“The cost of living has risen significantly. Workers' daily wages have increased from ₹160 to ₹250 in recent years, with projections of reaching ₹300 soon. Managing wages for over a thousand workers per garden has become a significant challenge,” the official added.

Beyond the fields, the socio-economic conditions of Assam’s tea workers paint a grim picture of hardship. With a literacy rate of only 46%, the communities within these gardens face limited opportunities.

"The tea industry faces a growing labour shortage as younger generations seek opportunities outside tea cultivation. During peak cropping months (July-September), many workers shift to paddy cultivation, resulting in longer plucking intervals. This impact both the quality of tea shoots and overall crop productivity", Santanu Baruah remarked.

The average daily wage of ₹167 hardly suffices for a decent living, and only 35% of these workers have access to adequate healthcare. Housing conditions remain poor, with just 40% living in acceptable dwellings.

Indicators of the socio-economic dynamics of tea garden laborers (Data: Socio-economic surveys)

This socio-economic stagnation has led many younger workers to seek opportunities beyond the tea gardens, contributing to a labour shortage that threatens the sustainability of the industry.

“Large tea companies offer workers various benefits, including medical aid, provident funds, gratuity, and education, effectively supporting them from birth to death. However, brought-leaf factories do not provide such facilities, which lower their costs and makes them more profitable than larger companies. As a result, these smaller factories are currently performing better than the big companies,” noted the tea official.

The export conundrum

Global conflicts have led to a reduction in tea exports. Arabic countries such as Iran and Iraq, where tea is consumed more due to the absence of alcohol, once had high demand, but US sanctions on Iran have now lowered this demand. Similarly, the ongoing conflict between Russia and Ukraine has drastically reduced their tea imports from India.

“Consequently, exports have suffered. Exports are mainly handled by big tea agencies, as brought-leaf factories, which focus on quantity over quality, do not meet global market standards,” explained the official.

A tea laborer in action, shaping the essence of Assam's tea gardens

He adds that currently, 50% of tea production comes from brought-leaf factories, which receive government support. “The government encourages self-reliance by supporting individuals who set up tea gardens in their own yards, helping them become financially independent," the official added.

"Over 50% of tea production in Northeast now comes from small tea sectors, leading to increased quantity but declining quality. Changing weather patterns have intensified pest attacks, resulting in high pesticide use, which concerns importing countries. Additionally, quality planting materials recommended by TRA face challenges in adverse conditions, deterring small growers from adopting them, further impacting tea quality", Santanu Baruah stated.

Towards a sustainable future

The path to revitalising Assam’s tea garden ecosystem lies in embracing sustainable practices, economic reforms, and social development. The adoption of climate-resilient tea varieties and integrated pest management could mitigate environmental impacts.

“Innovation in tea cultivation is critical for adapting to climate change. Rainwater harvesting, climate-resilient tea varieties, and climate-smart cultivation practices are essential for improving resilience,” noted Dr Pradip.

The future of Assam tea lies in adopting new technologies. "AI-assisted precision agriculture, efficient irrigation and fertigation, and improved tea processing technologies will enhance both efficiency and quality. Additionally, blockchain technology can help ensure the authenticity of Assam tea in global markets," he added.

Economic strategies like setting a minimum selling price for tea and providing subsidies to small growers could stabilize the market. Simultaneously, enhancing the living conditions and education of tea workers would empower these communities and diversify their reliance on the tea industry.

"Combating deforestation in tea plantations needs a collective effort from the government, tea industry, and society. Developing drought-tolerant varieties and implementing pest management require strong research support”, concluded Santanu Baruah.